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FAQs
Do I need some sort of base other than a flat level surface?
Yes, except for Robinsons, Janssens and timber greenhouses featured in this brochure. All other models require a raised edge profile which can be of brick or concrete blocks although metal bases are a convenient alternative and generally cheaper. Avoid choosing a galvanised steel base whenever possible as our experience has shown that galvanised or not, sooner or later rust will appear, especially as it is constantly at or below ground level. An aluminium base if one is required at all, although costing more, will last the lifetime of the greenhouse.
What surface do I need to be able to erect a greenhouse?
Although a flat level surface is essential, it can be of soil, grass, patio slabs, concrete or a combination of all of these.
What choices do I have for glazing a greenhouse?
3mm horticultural glass is standard supply for most greenhouses although some offer the options of toughened safety glass and polycarbonate whilst the ‘top-of-the-range’ models supply 4mm toughened glass as standard. Greenhouse toughened glass is actually SAFETY GLASS in that it crumbles into small particles when broken - much like a car windscreen. It’s available as Grade ‘A’ or ‘B’. The former, although costing a little extra, has a much higher impact than the latter. Almost all our toughened glass is Grade ‘A’ Polycarbonate glazing offering safety and increased insulation although should be avoided if greenhouse is likely to be subjected to extreme weather conditions.
How much ventilation should I have in my greenhouse?
As much as possible. The more means you have to ventilate the greater the control of temperature. Most greenhouses are supplied with a minimum of roof vents (to remain competitive) but are often insufficient. Consider extra roof and side louvre vents or even an extra door at the rear for added ventilation. An unattended greenhouse on a hot summer’s day is potentially just as damaging as an unguarded cold frosty night. Consider too automatic openers for both roof and louvre vents for convenience and ‘peace-of-mind’ especially if the greenhouse is likely to be left unattended for any period of time.
My garden is on an incline. What sort of base do I need?
Any of the above. A brick or block profile can be built from the highest point outwards to bring the site to level or soil can be removed from the lowest point into the incline to form a level surface often creating an interesting and appealing feature in the process.
Is there any advantage having full length toughened glass instead of multi-panes?
Yes. Full length glass, having no overlaps eliminates the potential for algae growth and draughts in these areas making for a warmer greenhouse and cleaning a whole lot easier. ‘Glass-slip’ is virtually eliminated as the pane fit-to-frame perfectly giving added rigidity to the structure.
Are there any alternatives to standard metal glazing clips?
Certainly! Quality greenhouses such as Robinsons use a colour co-ordinated UPVC bar-capping system to hold the glass in place without the use of clips whilst the ‘top-of-the-range’ Janssens use heavy duty neoprene rubber to do the same. Both feature in this brochure and are supplied as standard. Some other models are available with UPVC bar capping as an option.
Can I collect rainwater from the roof of my greenhouse?
In most cases, yes. With the exception of the curved freestanding models all other aluminium greenhouses have integral guttering as part of the frame whilst timber greenhouses (except octagonal shapes) can be fitted with UPVC guttering and downpipes. Combinations of rainwater fittings are available with some models to divert water from both sides to one point.
How can I find answers to other questions I might have?
Easy! Just telephone our technical helpline on 01761 463102 or e.mail: enquires@isgreenhouses.co.uk You can be assured of a prompt, courteous and informative response.
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